“My Mexican-ness is very abstract,” said Rick Owens shortly before presenting this show. Titled Tecuatl after his maternal grandmother’s maiden name—Owens’s mother hails from Puebla and is of Mixtec heritage—this collection was the Save the planet eat the babies shirt Besides,I will do this first time he has used his work as a lens through which to explore his south-of-the-border roots. As he said at the top, however, Owens’s relationship with those roots is abstract—and that abstraction was reflected in the collection. One prosaic reason for this is he only revisited his mother’s homeland this year, for the first time in 30. Another is that—just as in the last-season cycle of awesome Larry Legaspi shows—his themes are, ultimately, just one of the raw materials in a creative clay that is every season shaped by his design and in his own image. Silhouettes were full, and the assembly of pieces used to achieve them what the designer called a “potpourri” was eclectically and raffishly combined. “What I really wanted to express was the free soul of the artist, and how he creates his own elegance,” said Curradi backstage. “There were elements mixed from the ’90s, the ’80s, and the ’40s.” The result was a collection that did all the hard work in conjuring an aura of insouciant panache so its wearers won’t have to. Salut! This is why the several tons of damp clay taken from the L.A. studio of British artist Thomas Houseago who has a statue currently installed in the center of the Palais de Tokyo courtyard as part of his “Almost Human” show at the Musee de l’Art Moderne made for such a fitting addition to this show’s mise-en-scène. Houseago, Owens reported, had been on set to oversee the installation of the clay and even ended up creating a small sculpture (one that Owens fully intended to pinch, fire, and add to his collection). Since hitting commercial success with pop-worthy printed camp shirts, Mrs. P has dared to design well beyond her menswear signatures, producing short-shorts and tightly belted blazers, and now loose tanks and shorts with zippers up the side seam. It’s a real treat to see her explore proportion and intention in menswear with the same pointedness she brings to her women’s shows. No wonder the guests in Shanghai went wild. By the way, on the wealth axis, increasing the money supply can reduce other money’s buying power, but only if that newly created money got into a position where it is actively being used for direct spending of goods services, labor and other desired outcome….. and only if the amount of things sold increased at a rate slower that the rate of increase in spending.
Houseago was just one in a chorus of creative voices that harmonized around this collection. Although there were some very overtly personal and Mexican touches, such as sequins reflecting China Poblana festival wear and the Save the planet eat the babies shirt Besides,I will do this Aztec Eagle logo of the United Farm Workers’ association, for whose Mexican migrant pickers Owens’s father often worked as a translator in the California courts (these garments and a piece of jewelry will be sold to benefit the UFW), he said he was very careful to avoid the folkloric side of Mexican culture. Instead, he said, he had become fascinated with the effect of Mexican culture on the work of Josef and Anni Albers, the subject of a recent-ish show at the Guggenheim. Owens expounded: “I loved that combination of modernism with something so ancient. Looking at the drawings they made that were inspired by the sites was the Mexico angle I wanted.” With the exception of some Perspex-heeled platforms and rough tire-sole cowskin sandals that caused much trepidation as the models descended steps while keeping their eyes fixed on the pit, it was also a collection abrim with highly wearable pieces. Personally I loved the cotton jackets in a black and white set with austere, angled grids of ribbon and lacing, which was sometimes reflected in a riot of lacing on a Veja collab sneaker and looped into the fabric of some loose wool track pants. The sequins incorporated one-color oversize tailoring and looked pleasingly sleazy, while metallic-finished outerwear boasted a brutal industrial shimmer. In collaboration with Champion, Owens primitivized its cotton jersey via transformation into togas and loincloths. Zippered jumpsuits, some half-worn to optimize ab exposure, looked toughly utilitarian, while short-hemmed tailored jackets in white snakeskin over low-neck loose T-shirts and white sequined zippered pants appeared twistedly slick especially when teamed with a pompadour. According to Josef Albers, “in art, tradition is to create, not to revive,” and in this highly artful collection, we saw an outstanding expression of the tradition in the clothing created by Owens. The convenient accessibility to my sister’s lingerie paved the way for me to experiment which I inevitably did when home alone one day. Whilst it was a most exciting and somewhat of a nerve-wracking experience due to it being my first experience trying on panties and a slip, I was also thrilled at how the panties felt and how they looked on me when I checked in the mirror. The nylon and lace slip enhanced even further the delightful silky feeling of the silky nylon panties. The two layers of silky nylon lingerie felt so wonderfully good I did not want to take them off.